christmas greetings and strawberries

Merry Christmas everyone! Here's a wee video I made of Christmas this side of world - packed full of strawberries, raspberries, cherries and apricots in the sunshine! Strange to have Christmas time is the summer, full of different joys - no fires and roasting chestnuts but barbeque's, beaches and beers. Sure is turned upsidedown. Anyhow, I'm really happy just to have some time off work, bit of rest and lots of eating to see me into the new year me thinks. Dad - thanks for your lovely card that I was trying to acknowledge in the video there, but the sneaky wind took it to the nearby tree (found it after I stopped recording!). I hope you all have a great merry old time back there, I'll be thinking of you xxxx

Such Great Heights

2008. Almost over?! Where did all the time go? Sometimes it seems only yesterday that i got that bus to Heathrow Airport and landed, alone among millions of teeming, bustling Hong Kong masses. And yet that was a year, over a year ago. And now is the time of another new year, another Christmas, another year gone by, and what of it?

Well, so much has happened. I have travelled far in many ways and the physical journey of home to here is only geography, a physical location. Being so far away from home simply ensures that I only rely on myself. The common cliche of people heading off on Oversees Experiences to 'find themselves' is really hard not to laugh at, cheesy as it is, but I think there's something about travelling alone that lets that happen whether you like it or not. Don't get me wrong, I've never lost myself, not even in stinky London!, but when you free yourself from the routine of established life stuff just happens to make you even freer. Freer to be on the right path, freer to meet the right people and to face the challenges you need to overcome in order for the next chapter of life to begin. And so 2009 will see a new chapter opening for me, and I'm excited about that, ready for that. I have no idea whatsoever what will happen, what i will do with the year or anything, and I love that feeling. That is freedom for me right now, on December 18th 2008. (Disclaimer. H Jones will not be held responsible for making any of you readers feel slightly nauseous right now. Get a bucket. Read on)
I've climbed a few mountains, I made a few journeys, covered a few miles and I'm proud that I've done it all alone, just me. Its been amazing. I think that we always know that we can do anything we set our minds to but sometimes you have to go thousands of miles to work that out. Well that was 2008 for me, and its been a great year. I'm really really looking forward to 2009. Especially as I get to come home and see you all again. Do miss everyone horribly.

So, I'm on to a new improved Christmas Bloggy greeting for you this year, look out for it! And I'll be doing the phone rounds. Have phone card. Not afraid to use it.

travel thoughts.....

So I'm on a trip!! It occurred to my flatmate and I that we only worked, and on our days off, well we stay in the area, near work. So today and tomorrow we are road-tripping. We are currently at the bottom of Mount Cook, the highest peak in NZ. Its been a great day, great to remind ourselves of the fabulous country that we are in and that life is not solely about work. No matter how good your job is its still important to work to live not live to work. We'll have a lovely easy day tomorrow, cruising back past some lakes and towns, eating, drinking and being merry.

Christmas is coming too, but its not in the least bit Christmasy here, so I don't think I'll 'do' Christmas this year at all. Its not the same without you guys anyway! I've been putting quite a bit of thought and planning into coming home too. The overland trip is still on the cards but trickier than I thought it would be to arrange - dates, visas, mucho planning..... will be worth it though. I'm starting working it out backwards from Belaruse late May, Russia May, etc....see how I go.

xx

Elderflowers and Strawberries

The seasons first asparagus 6 weeks ago, the first elderflowers made into grantita and cordial, and now strawberries. It must be summer, and seasonality here plays a key role. It's key in so many vital ways - for me, eating seasonally is the heart of eating with pleasure, anticipation and respect for the natural cycles, rhythms and work that has produced what we put into our mouths. Working somewhere where my dessert menu reflects whats in season is very exciting and feels completely natural.
So it is a pleasure to work out what's new this week, what shall I do with the strawberries? What else can I do with the elderflowers, more flowering every day across the village and collected on my way to work. Having Simon equally interested and passionate about seasonal eating is the support needed to really enjoy the challenge and fun that goes into planning and making the dish. I've always loved jam making and preserving as a way of keeping a short season of fruit going for much longer. The love of blackberries can then continue across winter into spring. I think relatives got bored of jam for Christmas from Hana again, but I never tire of making it. Simon gave me the title of chief preserver and I'll hold him to it.

So currently I'm making a wall of elderflower cordial, elderflower sorbets, fresh strawberries macerated in elderflower syrup served with pannacotta (or is it meant to be pannacotta served with strawberries, for me the main event is whats fresh and in season right now). It's ice cream churning day today so I have a few delicious ideas up my sleeve, yes strawberry is on the cards but also hokey pokey (a New Zealand classic) and maybe apricot and almond, mint choc chip......ideas still welcome guys. My life is my ice cream...(not strictly true).

The girls have left the house now, in search of New Zealand sights, and have been replaced with an equally lovely German girl Julianna. All is nice and peaceful, I've also moved out of the 3rd bedroom (aka the dungeon) so sleep is happening. Bliss.

Mixed

Ok, so Ive just watched the video the girls and I made yesterday and laughed my socks off. How um....hmmm well we get in these moods sometimes. Celebrate the crazy.

Not quite two days off after all. I've just been cooking for and talking French with a lovely bunch of 20 who Fleur couldn't say no to. The art of saying No. I'm not too good at that either clearly or my morning would have been spent very differently. It was kinda nice having the kitchen to myself though, reminded me of being back at CAT (centre of alternative technology, not a cattery or giant cat or whatever other images that cues up) and cooking in my own wee kitchen for the staff. In the early days I could never sleep before cooking for the staff, my head was always buzzing with the planning and implementation of cooking for 70 veges and vegans. I loved it though. I often have sleepless nights here too, just thinking about work and the next day. Its hard to turn off when you really enjoy something or when your job is a challenge.

This whole not sleeping due to job thing lead me to think about President Obama. How the hell will he sleep? How do these people do it. They quite literally have the weight of the world on their shoulders, all that responsibility, and if you're not a blundering power-hungry oath like Bush then that responsibility must be crippling, exhausting, heavy in the extreme. No wonder Obama looked serious rather then elated after the results came in. Here perhaps is a man who comprehends the enormity of the task at hand. Who would actually want that job?

As a decent individual who actually cares enough to want to make a positive impact on the country, the planet, the task at hand suddenly seems sickening. I wholeheartedly commend his bravery and hope that good intentions don't get all twisted up in the politics of hopeless, meaningless destruction and plundering of our planet and people.

Last week I was happy to read some positive news about Rwanda. After the genocide the new president brought in laws that upheld equality of the sexes, and as a result over 50% of government positions are held by women. "Is that because Rwanda wiped out its male population?" asked a colleague. Well, yes partly (after the genocide 70% of the population was female), but I like to see some positive come out of the tragic.

And now it seems that Hutu/Tutsi conflict is continuing in Congo as the rebel leader General Nkunda renews tensions in the name of protecting native Tutsis from the Hutu extremists that crossed the border from Rwanda after 1994. 100,000s of people are wandering, displaced from their homes followed, hounded by death, rape, disease, starvation, terror...

How is it possible that all this continues to happen, and my friendly colleague now asks "which African country is it this time?" then "oh OK" and returns to his coffee.

Video central

So here I am actually properly introducing the flatmates - lovely aren't they...and I didn't pay them to say nice things about me either (maybe they're hoping for chocolate cake in return for compliments? Good plan girls, good plan) Sorry about the possible sickness induced by the turning of the camera...we are no experts it seems.

I realise that my camera is too rubbish to adapt to inside/outside light on cue so you are momentarily plunged into darkness for a while there. My house isn't really a cave, honest.

Its been a fine old day so far - Tai Chi with some lovely old folk in the school hall, then lunch in town with the girls, fruit shopping and wandering in the sun. I just got a couple of lovely emails too from people asking when I'm coming home, and it feels like a perfect amount of time to be here, returning in May for another summer. All is very well. I was VERY happy about the US election results as you can imagine, and bemused by New Zealand's result, swinging a little more to the right after 9 years of Helen Clark and Labour, bringing in a the National Party who aren't all that different anyway. As John Key said " the proof of the pudding is in the eating of it", so we shall see what change lies on the rocky road ahead.

The above video is actually Take Three! The first time we didn't turn it on, the second time this happened....

Times of change?

I feel nervous. This time four years ago I clearly recall being huddled around a radio with my People and Planet colleagues, all of us looking glum and sapped of that little inkling of hope that maybe, just maybe, change is coming. In the form of a new US President. One that isn't a ridiculous war mongering figure of a man, who stole the election 4 years previously. Surely the American public know this and would never vote for him again? Surely some inkling of true democracy will shine through this time.... Four years ago I actually cried at the result. Another four years of THAT. Well, this time I guess I'm hoping on Obama, but a large part of me wonders how much change he will actually bring beyond the significance of skin colour. With 4 wars lying in wait for the new president in a brimming in-tray of economic turmoil, remembering of course that war is the biggest industry in the US, what will a new face, black or white, actually mean?
We wait. I don't think I will cry this time. I am far more cynical than I was at People and Planet, which is a shame in some ways.

The New Zealand elections also happen this week, after a flat boring campaign between two very similar Parties. Sound familiar? I find it increasingly difficult not to be completely disillusioned with politics, even though I still find it hard not to keep one eye on whats happening. I think I'd rather be having an argument with the ice-cream machine (no mean feat!) than thinking about the reality of our world.
On a positive note - In Rwanda women now make up 55% of parliament, including many prominent positions and the speakers corner! How cool is that! After the genocide left the population 70% female a distinct shift has happened. That little bit of news tucked away at the back of the 'world' section made me smile today.

Work is going swimmingly! I may have found a yoga class too, which was on my life-want list. Good O.
E-mail me! Would love to hear from peeps back home. I just got my visa through (2 DAYS after posting it to them!!) and the thought of being away from home for another 6 months is okay...but not great. Time does pass quickly though...I must be getting older. Everyone always makes such a fuss about how time speeds up as you get older don't they!

Meet the flatmates

Photos - left to right, Nancy, Ariel and me outside Riverstone restaurant
Below - Nancy, Lisa (did a week at the restaurant), Ariel and Me in Omaru

So that last post I wrote a week or so ago, but somehow it didn't get posted up....so next here's the next, short, installment.
My Taiwanese flatmates and I have just finished working the bank holiday week - a grueling 65 hour week which has left me feeling exhausted. Don't think that much work is good for you really! But I have a couple of days off this week, this being one of them, and I've just walked an hour up the beach to get to the computer. It's a fine day! I took myself off to Omaru with the girls yesterday and we went out for a lovely lunch at the other good restaurant in the area. 'Ladies wot lunch' day it was, very nice to drink Riesling in the sun, but almost fell asleep while eating.... I took myself to the handsomest doctor in town, who gave me a clean bill of health so I have now finished off my visa extension and expect to be able to stay here til March time.
In some ways the manic weekend was good to see as I still enjoyed working it, and the challenge of having all my prep done in time for a busy service. I showed myself that I could do it and enjoy it, so I'm looking forward to a busy summer, so long as the hours aren't too long. No one functions well overtired. I'm feeling a wee bit emotional and lonely for friends and family too, and being too tired just exacerbates that. I had been thinking about going to Oz to work for another year or two after here, but i realise that there's no way I can go that long without seeing people I care about soon. So I'll be home by May! Until then I'm going make the most out of Magical Moeraki. Love to you all xx

ps - I just planted out my tomato plants. The girls are taking seriously my suggestion that they name and talk to one plant - Nancy's orange cherry tomato is called Nancy Tomato. Ariels white cherry is called Pepe!

The walk to work

So here we have Fleur's Place, the blackboard tells us that today, fresh off the boat from Fisherman Joe we have - Brill, Flounder, and.....drum roll, Mike Hood Music! (I think Mike walked to work actually! He plays his little ditties every day in the bar, lovely chap too). The boats come in just to the left there where there's a Jetty where a Seal lion called Over sized Billy hangs out. Fisherman Joe guts and fillets the fish on that table you can see to the left by the blue barrel...see it?

Here we have the approach to work from the coastal footpath I walk along. Takes about 20 minutes from home sweet home, 5 minutes of beach walking included.
And here you can see Fleurs Place in the distance there, where the boats are moored. This is just before I turn off the road onto the footpath from my house.

And here we have my basket. A key part of my job takes place on the way to work. I wouldn't say its the best bit, as I love it all so far, but its a great bit that's for sure. I collect wild flowers and leaves as dessert decor! Here you can see wild Banana Passion fruit flowers (they grow everywhere!).

So job is great. I survived the first two weeks and I love all of it. I love being so busy during service and the fact I can make whatever desserts I want to using what we have and whats in season. I make all the ice creams and sorbets too. Which leads me onto my very important QUESTION OF THE WEEK!

If you could choose one flavour of ice cream what would it be?

Please send me some ideas for great ice cream flavours and I'll choose some out of them to make. Email them to my address, or comment. If I make your suggestion you win a special prize (a free ice cream selection, my shout, when you visit me in Moeraki) Good eh!

PARADISE, the tour begins.

Me and the Boulders


Hello! This is the afternoon news with miss Jonesy.
The job is.....

AMAZING!! I am actually in PARADISE. Quiet literally, it is paradise here. A wonderful beach community surviving on fishing mostly and then there's this award winning inspirational restaurant there where I am now the Dessert and Entree Chef de Partie (or at least that's what I'm calling myself in my head!!) I totally LOVE the job, I LOVE the place, I LOVE my house up there with the sea view, my head Chef is REALLY AMAZING, my boss is GREAT. So you get the general idea.

A bit more depth now. I'm staying here until end of January time, living with the Taiwanese girls, Ariel and Nancy. The job is going to be challenging I think, long days 10am-10pm and very very busy. But I haven't panicked, although I was really nervous about doing Short Order work Chef has got me on the dessert and entree section so its not that scary, more fun that scary. Just requires me to stay calm when there's loads of orders on at once as there's a TINY space to work in and lots to do. I'm surprised how much I'm enjoying it actually and am really looking forward to a summer of learning and concentrating on the job. I don't mind the hard work and long hours at all if I'm working with people who love their job and are passionate about good food. I can learn lots from that and will be a much better chef by the end of it. So that's great. The restaurant has most of the qualities I would look for in an 'ideal' work place for me. Its right on the sea, lots of the menu comes from here, Moeraki, as fish is the speciality. Veges, herbs, eggs and other things are given/sold from neighbours and I'm encouraged every morning on my walk to work to pick garnishes (flowers, herbs, leaves) for my plates. My walk to work is the coastal footpath, 20 minutes of loveliness.
So I'm living right on the beach, working in a relaxed but manically busy kitchen (don't know how that works! Personality I think) and I think I have landed on my feet here. Very happy.

So I though seen as I'm going to be here a while I'd take you on a small journey each week to a different place in Moeraki. Like a guided tour. Today its my walk here, to Hampden, the next village up, an hours walk up the beach past the Moeraki boulders.
Here they are, a natural phenomena, the reason most people stop here actually, just to look at the big round rocks. They are concretions I think, made by a pebble rolling around accruing size in sand layers as it goes until its like this.....that's my explanation anyway. They're pretty cool. See the size of them up the top with me as a guide! Massive and perfectly round.
Then on my way here I walked past this ocean swing, a perfect place to swing swing around. I'm going back there now!

NEW JOB!!

I GOT A NEW JOB!!!

VERY excited. But also very scared...well not very Just a bit, like the kitchens really small and what if i get in the way more than help...but the head chef is Lovely. He says its a relaxed affair - just very popular and very very busy.

Its here http://www.fleursplace.com/
Its an amazing restaurant that perches on the edge of the sea in Moeraki, it serves fish from the fishing boats that come in like, 5 metres away!!! Lots of wild food on the menu, Head chef and owner both actually love food and have a passion for good natural food! how refreshing.

And I came across it by accident, on Saturday.

I have been feeling not so good and a bit useless and like I just needed a home and a job and a freind or two then... Saturday I'm driving from Dunedin to Christchurch, see a boat in a field and turn into this tiny village called Moeraki....I get out my car, a little nervous as there's lots of fishermen lolling around looking at boats, I walk, I see this building 'Fleurs Place', I go in.

WOW theres a man just there playing folk music, Its busy (where have all these people come from??) I order a Pinot Gris, sit at the bar, start chatting to some Taiwanese girls clearing dishes, the inside looks like an old quirky ship, its beautiful. Then I start to read Fleurs new cookery book and discover she has very similar food ethics to me, only shes owned restaurants for 20 years or so, shes just been on tele and Rick Stein came here last year. Then Fleur comes over says hello, I say I'm looking for work, she says Stay the night, theres a room free in the house up the road, gets Head Chef, we talk, I have JOB!! and FLAT with the Taiwanese girls that has a balancy overlooking the sea! Look at my view! (FROM MY BALCONY!!)

Theres PENGUINS here,and its so beautiful and the people ( I met a few locals yesterday) are really nice. I'm excited!! We're just taking it on a casual basis, weekly pay etc until we see how I fit in etc. Now I have to buy Chef Knives etc......

Dunedin

Dunedin Farmers Market, Arts Festival Performance

Scottish born Dunedin town. Here am I. In the public library trying to find a medical centre that will happily do my immigration medical stuff. I like this city! So far so good. Last night I took myself for a stroll around the Octagon (central city hub) and got myself a nice pint of Kilkenny and sat and people watched for ages. You can do that in cities, just sit and people watch. Fascinating and often hilarious. I was outside watching the steady flow of couples and groups pausing to inspect the menu then float on to the next bar/restaurant to do the same when I spotted this girl with a clipboard. She was like a little sparrow, flitting from place to place in search of crumbs. But the crumbs were words to be written on her little clipboard and at one stage she was staring towards to bar noting something down furiously, leaning on this bollard when WHAM, bollard falls over. SPLAT. She picks herself up, looks around to see if anyone saw (no one else was watching though) and then giggled into her hand. A moment!

Then JANIE rang! From Hokianga (you know, where i was wwoofing way back in January with her) and shes returned from the States to come and live here with Cowboy Clint! How great is that. So we have vowed to chat regularly. It was really really lovely to catch up with a friend. And the prediction of "oh my god you are going to go to New Zealand, find a nice man and never leave" might actually be true for her. Wow.

So yesterday I actually drove straight across from West Coast to East in one day, stopping only to take my reluctant body for some exercise up giant hills and through mud and woodland. Sometimes my body is like a petulant child who simply does NOT want to go on a walk today and incessantly moans at me to turn around and get back into the car. It was particularly annoying when I misread a sign pointing up to Arthur's Viewpoint 10 mins return, a perfect spot for lunch I thought and began the 5 minute climb. 20 mins later, still climbing, body annoyed, but it must just be around the next corner? When i returned I reread the sign which said 40 min return, so wishful thinking on the 10 mins. It was worth the view anyhow.

I was all set to stop at the fire station for the night but fate had other plans. As I pulled into GORE, I took a sip of water from my big squeezy bottle and made bad bad mistake. Never squeeze a squeezy bottle in the middle whilst driving. It looked distinctly like I had peed myself! So laughing, I decided this was a sign to continue driving til it had dried.

Here I am. I'm staying to visit the farmers market tomorrow (I LOVE FARMERS MARKETS), then I'll be going upwards towards Christchurch for medical stuff. Yippeee.

Little White in the Snow

Little White in the Snow (Note how bumper is held on by cable ties and lights held in by seletape!! So proud I am)
Fiordland - Milford Sound

I have had a request! Dad says he doesn't want to see all these pictures of wilderness, he wants to see Little White! So I took a picture of her in the snow of the Fiordlands yesterday and would upload it HOWEVER the camera is in the car. The car is in the garage!! Uh oh I hear you cry. But NO it's not that bad. I will tell you why....

I think that high expectations of a place, an experience, of anything sometimes end in a less-than-satisfying result, and that was the case yesterday. It all started the evening before when I found myself in Rosie's Hostel, Te Anau. An award winning home stay hostel that was full with 9 of us there. I played guitar, I put my feet up, I enjoyed her lovely kitchen and a piece of Rosie's cake (better than mine I tell you!!). Then I met a sick Canadian couple who's relentless coughing led me to making them a special Hana-brew (Whisky, honey, lemon, ginger, echinacea, liquorice root all boiled up in a pan - a secret recipe of mine). As they drank it they were questioning me on why I was alone as if that was the strangest thing in the world. I happily explained the benefits of lone travel, and how it really strengthens you, how I never actually feel alone anyhow even if I am physically on my ownsome. They found it really strange and started rattling on about safety issues etc. Oh dear oh dear, I have to say I started to find them a tiresome, then downright annoying. Who are these people putting their own fears on me? But the result was that I looked around the hostel and I saw:

• A group of three Koreans. Having these quirks - travelling with an electric Rice Maker!!!???, watching Korean game shows in our 4 bed dorm til late, and last but definitely not least putting the heating on so poor me wakes at midnight to find myself sweating in a 35degree room temp! It really was that hot. I unplugged the offending heater. They had a session of heated (!) Korean exclamations about it in the morning and plugged it back in!!
• A group of three American men, who didn't really talk outside the group.
• A happy Canadian couple sipping delicious Hot toddy.
• Rosie and family.
• Me. Started feeling a little bit sorry for little old me and momentarily forgot that it was my choice.

So yesterday on this amazing drive to the edge of the world my oil ran out. I had brought a litre of engine oil but when the light came on the oil didn't touch the engine. It wasn't enough. In normal circumstances I don't think this would have phased me much but I was feeling a little wobbly and would have liked to have someone else to lean on a bit. A found a friendly bus driver and he gave me some spare oil, but the commercial type, so I spent a large part of the 220km drive thinking Little White was going to explode. She didn't. I had some nice walks but mostly had a case of the worries. Dear oh dear.

All is looking up today. Little White is just having a service for my peace of mind. I don't mind the cost for a bit of peace eh! And I'm driving EAST. No idea where I will end up today but this lovely retired Welsh/Irish couple I met the other day told me to go stay in this old converted FireStation in a place called GORE! Shall I go for comedy value?? Yes, maybe, we will see.

So the moral of the story is not to pay attention when smug Canadian couples treat you like an idiot for choosing to travel alone instead of in a smug couple. Me and Little White. Onwards.

Fiords

Fiordland is the most magical magnificent place. I've travelled for hours and hours, days really, to get here, and despite Milford Sound actually being the most stunning place I've ever been I feel a bit glum today. There's a few clouds hanging over my head that are making a few suggestions to me - we will leave when:

• You find a town to enjoy staying in and getting to know
• You find at least one friend.
• You find a purpose in life (ie a decent job) instead of filling days with nothingness.

See, I think I've reached a point. The point where even if I didn't financially need to get a job and stay still, I want to. Milford Sound truly is a stunning piece of natures magnificence but it was an experience that would have been enhanced if I had someone to share it with. Normally I really enjoy my own company and I never feel alone, its just I miss having friends physically here to chat to and share with. So that is now my mission. I have no idea where I'm going having done all of my must see's in the South Island. So let's see where the road takes me!

Drowned in job offers?

After my little adventure yesterday with the Whitebaiters camp I retired to sleepy Haast and decided the time was right to go to the pub and meet the locals. Meet the locals I did indeed. There I was reading my paper, drinking a handle of beer and one by one they curiously creep over and tentatively start a conversation. One bloke asked what I did for work and before I knew it he had ran off and returned moments later with the manager offering me immediate start work in the kitchen. Good pay, cheap flat and food that goes with it. A great deal if you wanted to spend time in a town with 150 locals over a 50 mile radius, mostly men, mostly 50+, mostly in the pub, where it rains almost 15 metres a year!!!! I didn't really want to stay there, and drove off in the pouring rain this morning.

But last night was thoroughly enjoyable. After one by one coming to chat to me the locals dragged me over to their table, brought me beer all night and encouraged me to 'find the rabbit' in the Monteith's posters (a popular sport in the Haast pub!). I had not one, but two more job offers in the course of the evening. All the blokes carefully explained that they spent every night in the pub, there isn't much to do in Haast, but we are not alcoholics oh no, just keen on company. Where were all the women I wondered? The last cook had ran off during the night by the way, they seemed to steer off the subject when i asked why...

The owner Rachel kept telling them off like schoolboys - "don't scare her off Derek". I felt a bit like a fish being reeled in. That was my favorite local pub experience so far but I couldn't stay there nooooooo.

Now I find myself in Central Otago, Wanaka. It would be a super stunning town (it is location wise) but unfortunately it had this weird blight. Its called SNOWBOARDERS. They saunter round the town in ridiculous (I MEAN RIDICULOUS) outfits and if i stay here for long I will either die laughing at them or be killed for not being cool enough! I'm not cool enough for this town, that much is true. And I never want to be. Shoot me someone if I ever get that pretentious. Urrgggh. Well, I'm here for the weekend anyway, before continuing my adventures. This sure ain't the town for me. No Sir.

Baiting the white

WHITEBAITING SEASON IS HERE!!!

Well, actually its been going on since i left Karamea,

Today I experience the Ghetto. Whitebaiters lodgings aplenty. O yes.

I drove and drove through magnificent scenery,

Picking up and chatting with a freindly hitchhiking laddee

Called Brian.

Stopping and spotting many a lovely site on the way to Haast.

And onwards, alone again in the peace of my Little White,

To the end of the way. To Jacksons Bay!

Where I saw this:

And this:

(Had a little chat with a fisherman called Ken)

All this, travelling is bliss! Can you tell?

Yesterday I saw this:

Not that I'm bragging....(its Lake Matheson with Mount Cook in the background)

So on my way, from the bay
I explored some more and drove down this wee road

Neils Beach it said, this way

But at the end of the dirt road I found....

A small community of whitebaiters all in housebus', trucks, caravans, vans

Standing around looking grim, cooking their dinner on fires in their gumboots

No women, expect a shop dummy wearing a discarded bikini top

In a pile, a Mountainous pile of odds and sodds

Old Gumboots, many a left foot

Horns from dead beasts, old nets, old tins cans

Old everything, in a pile,

Maori blokes peeking out from sheds,

Looking to me, being an only girl in a travelling whitebaiters village

Menacing. And a little strange.

I was there, so I walked through, to test the old fear levels.

I walked back, still alive! Survived.

Hooray.

I drove a little faster on the way home!

I'm now in Haast, a small compact little stopover. The backpackers is really nice here. A fine view. It's all fine views to be had. Wow is my general response at the moment. I have regular stops to stop myself from crashing INTO the scenery it's that good.

So tomorrow off to Wanaka to find a doctor who will declare me in excellent health so that I can apply for another years visa! And then the job hunt begins. At the moment my requirements are this: A town with a farmers market! A nice little cafe/restaurant serving excellent food so I can get some good experience. I'm sure my conditions will weaken as time goes on and money slips away. We shall see aye.

Ka Roimato Ohine Hukatere (the tears of the avalance girl)

I visited my first Glacier today. A white river of ice pouring down the mountain valley at a rate 100,000 times slower than a river. A magnificent sight. I read all the scientific reasoning's behind it, and it went in one ear out the other quick as lightening. What did still though was this:



An adventurous independent Maori woman by the name of Hine Hukatere (the avalanche girl) loved mountaineering. It was her main passion in life, that and her lover Tawe. Tawe, although appreciating Hines love of climbing was not that keen on it himself but occasionally joined her for the odd expedition. One day tragedy strikes and poor Tawe falls into the deep abyss. Dead. Hine cries a river of tears, filling the valley with her salty grief. The sympathetic Gods freeze her tears in memory of this thus creating Franz Joseph Glacier.



I like that story, it makes more sense than the science that I cannot grasp. The Glacier really was stunning. A strange sight. I'd put up pictures but my camera is playing up once again.



So I am writing this today from a bus! An Internet bus full of comfy seats and computer kiosks. A find! Its a beautiful evening and I walked twice around the town just to appreciate the sky. The whole town is built around tourists visiting the Glacier so it's a strange one. Don't think I want to work here even though there's plenty of summer jobs. I think I must work somewhere with a farmers market.

It's really exciting to see and experience first hand one of the many marvels of nature and to be enjoying Planet Earth. But is does make me realise that I would need several lifetimes to see and appreciate everything properly. It's really hard to get to know the subtle pleasures of a place and it's people unless you spend a decent amount of time there, but that means you must be very selective about where you chose to get to know, as getting to know everywhere...well there's not enough time is there! I am realising all the million billion things I'd like to do and, at the same time, the fact that I won't do most of them. Just a few, the ones that are most strongly on my path. For example - in some of my other lives and possibly this one I'd like to:

• Spend a summer in France becoming properly fluent and enjoying life in France with baguette's and cheese and wine.
• Spend a summer in Italy becoming properly fluent and enjoying life in Italy, eating amazing local Italian food and relaxing.
• Travel through Africa in a house bus
• Travel everywhere
• Be an amazing writer, travelling around meeting real life crazy characters for my next bestselling novel.
• Have a smallholding and live there self-sufficiently with my brood (of chickens,children,veges...)
• Be the top local, seasonal, organic Chef advocating a philosophy rather than just selling food.
• Build a pizza oven and travel round the eco-festivals selling pizza
• Do a world tour of farmers markets
• Be an eco-travel writer

Oh dear, I fear it's getting boring, as I could actually go on for a long long time. I won't however.

I think one of my favorite things about travelling is the people you meet. Like yesterdays Irish Possum Hunter. I met him for half an hour but his character is already larger than life. He's become a bit of a legend and I'm no longer sure which parts are based in reality. I see him in a deer stalkers hat, wild-eyed with his quick fleeting smiles and shifty eyes flicking quickly as if he is constantly hunting. I wonder whether living in the bush changed him beyond recognition or whether he was always a little wild.

Then there's Punakiki Pete. By far one of the best characters I've met so far. I would also call him Rocky Horror Pete. Here he is now, fully armed with his Yoga gear, dressed in stockings a suspenders wearing a rather alluring shade of lipstick, brandishing a delicious looking Flat White (coffee for you none-Kiwis). He makes the best darn coffee in the West and at weekends likes to dress up in women's clothes (that may not be true but in the cafe there's a lovely picture of him as a lady!) I see him, a big softie Londoner, like a big teddy bear, perched on a rock beside me quoting a Kathy Burke sketch:

An old lady goes into a pound shop (please remember the strong Saaaf London accent folks). Shes asks the assistant "ow much is this?" He replies "its a pound". "Ow much it this?" pointing to a rubber chicken. "Its a pound, everything's a pound". This goes on until "ow much is this?" calmly asks little old lady. "ITS A POUND, EVERYTHING A POUND" shouts irate shop assistant. Little old lady " CHILL THE F*** OUT"

This is the story that Punakiki Pete tells with great glee, several times, and VERY loudly, causing unsuspecting tourists to trip up or choke on their coffee. Pete in his strong Saaaf London accent is completely oblivious and tells it once more for luck. I am in hysterics of course. It really was very funny. What a character. I couldn't go to Greymouth's Annual Ball in the theme of the Rocky Horror show as sadly I had left my fishnets in the UK. Oh well.

I believe I have gone on for rather a long time tonight, but actually there's not much to get up to here. I'll go back to my book shall I....

Il bel far niete

Il bel far niete = the art of doing nothing.

A phrase coined and mastered in all its glory by the Italians of course. I feel I am beginning to achieve such great heights on a day like today when it is quite literally raining cats and dogs. I could be in a tent, my car, my old beaten up caravan, a shanty hut for all the noise. Its pelting it down and I feel like hibernating.

I have left to extreme hospitality of Hokitika after a realised that it was all a massive ploy to part Hana from money. It goes like this. Extreme isolation from shops/money spending places/people for 6 months followed by a town filled with:

Specimin A - A fine Scotch Whisky. Very fast talking whisky worded wisdom from an older alcohol-loving lady with a beautiful bottle shop/cafe/cocktail bars. I just got drawn in. Am now very pleased to have whisky as company as I've got one of those annoying colds that just sprung up this morning.

Specimin B - Greenstone. Pounamu. Jade. The West Coast is full of it. Its a stone of great majesty and has great spiritual and practical meaning for Maori. In Hoki half the shops are artist and craft studios, both large and small. I was simply seduced by the Pounamu into buying a fine piece. It is a gift for someone, although I cannot say who.

Specimin C - SHOES. Dammit, I brought shoes when I needed BOOTS. I can't believe I did it. I have been wearing the same pair of amazing Keen boots for 18 months now. They are the only pair (apart from my jandals/flipflops) that I have worn in this time and I have quite simply run them into the ground. So the slightly sad search for their replaced started today and got Severely Sidetracked. I am now the very proud owner of a beautiful pair of green Keen shoes. They are captivating and to be honest they didn't give me much of a choice in the matter. They chose me. However all walking I do in the future will be in my old worn out holey boots that leak and generally smell. Poor Boots.

So money gone I took myself off to the Glaciers. Here I am. No sight of Glacier yet, just lots of giggling girls and Italian men lounging around the hostel. So yes, I am practicing the art of doing nothing. Nothing but read. I've just finished reading Kere Holmes' The Bone People. If you want to get a poetic sense of New Zealand, the land, the people, the legends, all entwined in a sorrowful yet heartening tale then read this book. Its very very gripping. Its like staring at the West Coast ocean, getting lost in the Dichotomy of its magic and harsh wild nature. I went on a detour to see the town/village (actually a hamlet) where she lives and wrote the book. Very rainy, very wild.

Highlight of the day (apart from my new shoes of course) : Went into The Bushmans Lounge - a middle of somewhere kinda place specialising in Possum Pie and Roadkill. On entry there's a sign that summed up says:

Do not ask us what the weathers doing. We're working. You're the ones on holiday with time to drink coffee and read papers (owner was doing exactly this when I arrived though!). Do not bring your moaning English arses in here complaining about the weather. We're making you feel at home. This is a RAINforest. If you want sun P**s off to Sardinia.

I nervously approached the counter after inspecting the array of possum fur nipple warmers and various other weird and wonderful things and to my great surprise got a warm welcome. I tried asking for a possum pie but somehow the message from brain to mouth didn't carry through and 'venison please"came out instead. The wild-eyed local I spotted on arrival turned out to be an Irishman who had been living in the bush for the last while or so, setting possum traps and eating them for breakfast. Hmmm he might have been there too long judging from his gumboots, leggings, checked shirt down to the knees and a strange rambo-style tie round his head. I had an extremely amusing conversation before making a swift exit.

Friendly neighbourhood Kiwis

Yes. The friendly neighbourhood Kiwis of Hokitika are living up to their name today. Not once, not twice, not thrice but on Every Single Occasion possible today I have had marvellous interactions with very genuine friendly Kiwi folk. For example - Here I am after doing a couple of u'es in Little White, looking at my very small, very ill-detailed tourist map of Hoki when a big landrover pulls up. They wind down the window to gleefully tell me that I look lost! I concur with a sheepish smile and tell them I'm looking for the Gorge. They smile and tell me to follow, at which point I embark on a rather whirlwind tour of Hokitikas back roads and a speed far greater than my usual 'Nanna' driving style. After leaving me on a no exit road commenting that there's no way I can get lost now (watch me!) they smile and wave goodbye. The Gorge was simply Gorgeous by the way.
Then there was the beach walk. Everyone in Hokitika seems to pop down to the beach from time to time to check its still all there. They all wave and smile as you walk past and a couple came up to me to ask me where I was from (I didn't realise it was THAT obvious that I'm not from round here). So a lovely friendly day, bit of a contrast to Grey Greymouth but that must be attributed as least partly to the weather.
I even found some really really nice Single Malt in a wee shop. Its from the only distillery on the Isle of Mull and I thought it would be rude not to sample it.
Ahhh yes. How I love Whiskey. A bit of a mixed blessing that, not coming cheap. So I am planning a trip to Isla to cycle round the island and visit the ten distilleries there. This will happen at some point in the future! who's with me? If you fancy whisky tastings in fine ole Scotland do leave a comment. First ten win the sort after places.....

The Weather with Jonesy

You are tuned into the wonderful world of HanasHead, and now we have the weather read to you by our very own weathergirl extrodinaire....itttttttts Jonesy.

Hello and welcome to West Coast Weather. Today we have a cooooold front moving in from the South and rudely shoving the last two days brilliance out the way. Be sure to do all bike-riding site-seeing in the aptly named Greymouth Town this morning before the arrival of the ominious Barber. Yes, the Barber strikes again, rushing through the deserted grey streets of Greymouth wailing out razoredged sonnets of doom and gloom in a miserable manner. We here at the weather studio believe that this famous Barber fellow is reponsible for driving away the friendly tourists of yesterday, leaving us in (heavenly) peace and solitude at one of the best backpackers yet. The Global Backpackers lives on despite the cutting wind (aptly named the Barber) and is the place all sensible beings should hang out as we see the arrival of toooooorrential rain. Thats right people, run home from your Brewery Tours and cosy up by the fire, its Cats and Dogs out there.

Don't forget to attempt to instil a sunny disposition to all you meet today, especially tour guides with a possible sense of humour bypass as despite first impressions humour is probably just hidden behind many layers of clothing. Also note that when arriving at Brewery looking like a drowned rat you are likely to be given the shifty up-down look over to a) make sure you won't shake yourself and coat off like a wet dog on her premises and b) you are over 18 behind those limp soggy locks. This ill-humour should disperse later on in the day after repeated attempts at conversation/intelligent beer related questions and, failing all that, amusing travelling anicdotes like:
Slightly odd Russian guy in Rainforest Retreat "Excuse me James, could you tell me absolutlely everything about everything everywhere here as you are getting out the shower at 11pm please?"
Then "Excuse me James but can please turn generator off. Very noisy."
Slightly perplexed and acutely annoyed James (remember he is in his towel, fresh out of shower) "Err you mean the OCEAN?"
Such talk will likely to bring a sweeping smile from the south followed by a much warmer front and even a bit of freeform conversation. Success. Return to the fire to dry off/sober up.
Later on we shall see INTENSE HUMIDITY in the locale of the sauna, for a short period of 30 minutes only so be prepared. Drink plenty of water, bring a towel and enjoy.

You have been listening to the weather. Greymouth version.

HIPPIE? Moi?

So current public opinion from the blog-following peeps of Devon/Wales/Backabeyond would like an answer to the raving-hippie question of a few weeks back. Here is an explanation (of sorts). Enjoy.

hippie

The Oxford Pocket Dictionary of Current English | Date: 2008

hip·pie / ˈhipē/ (also hip·py) • n. (esp. in the 1960s) a person of unconventional appearance, typically having long hair and wearing beads, associated with a subculture involving a rejection of conventional values and the taking of hallucinogenic drugs.


Beads hanging, Beard grooming, Sandal sporting, Wildly Flouncing,Is that dancin? Day dreaming, psychedelic taking, Jesus looking, LOVE and PEACING?
Poi spinning, Craft making, Bran eating, Rainbow painting,
Van Living, Horribly HAIRY, Airy FAIRY, Black footed,
Hippie.

Tree Hugging, Free-love loving, Crystal beaming, Tarot Reading,

What are you wearing?
Bicycle riding, Freedom Fighting, Pot Smoking, Plant growing,
Crazy Greenee, Meat avoidee, VEGAN friendly, ethically pleasing,
Guitar Playing, Cliche Saying, Chakra Sensing, Wash avoiding,
Hippie.

Yes/No? Agree?
Well. Lets look at it this way.


Some people don't really like Hippies. I've noticed. If you are noticeably displaying your reluctance to join full-heartedly into society and all it conventionally values then Some People view you will distinct disdain.

Some People dismiss comments from people they label as Raving Hippies without a second thought. Bloomin' Hippies, they think, always preaching about peace and love and never actually getting on with it. They just live in Communes, Smoking pot all day and talk about saving the world. Who listens? Who are the law abiding public working hard, paying taxes, working day after day after day to pay the mortgage to feed the kids to pay for a new fridge a new car a new shirt the latest everything. Who do these dirty hippies think they are travelling around, living freely, not following the unwritten laws of society that make us so happy. So very happy with our conventional lives. Hippies only smile because they are stoned the whole time, how dare they. Its defiantly not because they actually find moments of true joy in everyday life. It must be something to do with those flowers they have in their hair...Don't they know the Sixties has long gone? Woodstock is only a memory. Love and Peace will never exist. Whats the point in all this recycling anyway, we can just make new ones yes?. Why are you always sitting around playing guitar when you could be doing something Useful. What would these hippies want to find another alternative way of living when what we've got is working fine. I don't believe in Global Warming anyway. Load of rubbish. Fancy buying vegan sandals when that ones flown all the way over here. What a hypocrite.

The End.

PS. I have just noticed that I am sitting writing this with odd socks on. One is rainbow stripped. The other has a hole in it. I am also wearing sandals. Over. My. Socks. Oh my god, I think someone should call the fashion police and get me quickly arrested for the henious crime of Not Fitting In. Whoops. Alert Alert, Possible Hippie on the Premises.

Really The End Now.

-------------------------------------------------------

A brief explanatory note for those of you who may just think I'm being rude about everyone.

The above comments are for the most part verging on the ridiculous. For the most part they are horribly polarised stereotypes that fit few individuals. The suggestion that a barefooted free spirited wanderer is a far more worthy occupation than a hard-working mortgage paying person is of course rubbish. All forms of expression, individuality and ways of living are equally valid in my opinion and few labels can accurately describe an individual. Few labels paint a holistic picture of a person or their lifestyle. Dismissing someone as a raving hippy is as bad as dismissing someone as a boring conformist. Polarities and black and white portrayals of people rarely do justice to the range of eclectic people that make up the interesting society that we live in. There are many many shades of grey and sometimes it is nicer to be called Hana than to be called Hippy. My point. Over and out.

The magic of the ocean reveals....

...hidden caves and fur seals

A venture, to the end of the beach, climbing slip sliding up the rocky ledge that leads us to a hidden, human-free hideaway. An ethereal mist hangs over the sea today, creating a pearl effect - colours in bluegreen watercolour, the magic of the coast seeping into the adventurers leaving us in our peaceful bubbles. Exclaiming over a star fish, a bottomless rockpool, a crab disturbed scutters under a rock. New Zealand Fur Seals roar at the indignity of their afternoon nap being disrupted by mere humans, of the girlie kind who leap back in surprise (and with a tiny bit a passing fear).
We spot mussels, big juicy looking mussels and ask the seas permission, tentatively waiting at the edge for a response, a sign that we won't be swallowed up by the ocean. It consents, but only for a few, a starter, before roaring around our ankles. We retreat.
Through caves and chasms we climb, hands and knees, pulling up over rocks and ledges to the next hidden cove, the next installment of today's magic. Feeling at once both tiny and insignificant in time and size and like a giant trending softly on a massive geological landscape full of rivers and valleys and swirling pools.

Amazing. Why have I been sitting on the first beach for two weeks? It goes to show how much more you see and experience when you stop for longer in a place, really get to know it.

Musak

Another pirate radio experience last night! Punakiki Rocks Razza 100.2FM Radio! We did a James and wwoofers show and it was excellent! Really great fun, I'm getting into this community radio molarchy. You never really know if anyone is actually listening though. In Karamea I think maybe 5 people. Here, maybe 2? But it doesn't matter, its a FANTASTIC way to spend an evening. A couple of beers, a couple of nice people to spend the evening with. Basically we were just playing songs for each other all night. How nice is that. There were a few threats of Wet Wet Wet and Take That, but luckily the good music won. Mostly.

I got to play a few current favorite tunes including Neil Young - To the Wire, Bedoulin Soundclash, Xavier Rudd - Messages, Regina Spektor - On the Radio, Beirut, Kora, among others. We had some Swedish classics from Johan including The Knife - Heartbeats and Abba!
A great evening all round.

Thought you might like to read the lyrics from the lovely Xavier. He really is a one-man-band genius.

Xavier Rudd - Messages

Now come sit down, will you talk with me now
Let me see through your eyes where there is so much light
We are biding our time. For these myths to unwind
These changes we will confront.

So please beware with every place that you have
Look to your soul for these things that you know
for the trees that we see
Cannot forever breathe
With the changes they will confront.

You know some people they just won't understand
Don't understand, these things
Thank you for your message but I don't understand
won't understand these things

This sacred land it has seen many hands
it has wealth and gold yet it is fragile and old
now the greedy souls, just dont care to know
of the changes that will confront

So speak out loud of the things you are proud
And if you love this coast
keep it clean as it evoles
Cos the way that it shines
may just dwindle with time
with the changes it will confront

You know some people they just won't understand
Don't understand, these things
Thank you for your message but I don't understand
won't understand these things.

So hold nice and close i want to get to your soul
So when it is cold you wont feel so alone
cos the road that you take may just bend and break
with the changes you will confront

With each gift that you share
You may heal and repair
With each choice that you make you may help someones day
well i, know you are strong
may your journey be long
and now i wish you the best of luck

I know you are strong
may your journey be long
and now i wish you the best of luck.

Accountability and Blogging in general

Happy Thursday To You Too.

When you have a blog, like I do, and actually write in it and enjoy writing in it, as I do, there comes a point when you wonder who reads it and how much you should edit yourself.
I mean, I don't put anything in here that I wouldn't actually talk to real people about (writing on a computer does not feel like I'm talking to real people most of the time, it usually feels like I write for the pleasure of writing and it goes off into the tinterweb-etha never to be seen again). And believe it or not I do edit myself to a the extent that if I have time I spell-check, and I don't swear!I don't edit my mood though, and I think you can really tell the difference between goodmood and badmood Han. I do this deliberately because otherwise you would get a very one-sided everything-is-always-amazing picture of my travels. And that's simply not real. There's always two or more sides to every story, there's always ups and downs. Would you read a book where only lovely things happen? Would it be interesting still? I'd love a book like that but it would bore me because I'd know that its very unrealistic. I'd rather be like I am (bit of moody bugger at times/very happy at others) than constant in-between level headed person that I'm not. That would bore me. So you have the ups and downs in my life in this blog, along with the good and bad points about the places I stay, the things I do. Its all from a personal point of view too, all very, whats the word...subjective?

I hope that people understand that personal blogging is simply that. Its personal, its not objective pieces of writing that fairly demonstrate both sides of an argument.

For example, take my rant about 1080 a week or so back. That is a one-sided highly opinionated blurb from an upset tourist. It is almost a knee-jerk reaction to the realisation that this piece of natures wonderland that I'm in is not managed perfectly. It is an emotional response to an issue that upset me. And I do hold myself accountable for everything I said if you take into account the style of writing. After writing that I then wrote to DOC, Tourism New Zealand and relevant members of Parliament to express my displeasure. DOC won the response rate by getting back to me in a record time of 24 hours, and in detail too. Too much condescending detail I thought. So of course I wrote back, this time being less an emotional tourist and trying to present more of a factual argument to why I was against indiscriminate aerial use of 1080 poison. Again, a prompt response from Herb Christophers from DOC. This time less sarcasm and more pointed attempts to convince me that DOC really did care and considers 1080 the best/only viable means of possum/TB control. What he didn't do is convince me, I am still of the opinion that aerial 1080 is a terrible thing to be using on native bush. What he did do is to present DOC's point of view of the subject, so now I have more information and can make a less subjective opinion. I also changed my opinion of him and DOC from dislike at being belittled to actually liking the guy for taking the time to address the issues. Nice one Herb.

So accountability for what we say on blogs is a funny issue really. Its semi-private in that I write this for friends and family. And yet countless nameless others read this blog for reasons I cannot fathom (115 people in the last week! who are you all?) and this blog is in the public domain. Strange to think that strangers read my words. You can really get to know a person from what they write and how they write it, and yet I may never meet these people.

How to enjoy housekeeping...

Photo = housekeeping A team. Me, Scottish Mags, Lisa from the valleys, and hmmm the names already slide away. How awful!

a. Do housekeeping somewhere amazingly beautiful. Remember to look up every 5 minutes from your hoovering/mopping/scrubbing to admire New Zealand's rain forest/bush wonderland just there outside the window.

b. Sing loudly and out of tune to mp3 player on random (again Oli, thank you for the music).

c. Chuckle away to oneself remembering Erin and Laura creeping into the Awaroa kitchen to lounge around my baking section with me shooing their suspicious housekeeping coats away from my nice clean bench. I now know why you guys spent so much time chatting with me!

d. Pretend nasty chemicals are ....well, something else.

e. Take time removing all the spiders and moths from the bathroom before spraying nasty chemicals in there. Remember to talk to them and explain why they are being relocated.

f. Visit the ever-stunning, always-awe-inspiring, magnificent beast/goddess that is the ocean at least once a day, preferably before and after housekeeping.

g. Have a fantastic Welsh Woman called Lisa as a boss. The accent makes me feel at home and she really is LOVELY.

h. Realise that the Scottish girl who gave me a headache when I first arrived is also very nice and has lots in common with me...like film choice (any0ne who rates Garden State as one of their favs can't be a bad lass) and music.

i. Relax after the chemical scrubbing is over by attending a local yoga class (YES, more yoga in my life PLEASE). This takes place in the gift shop/post office/cafe by Pancake Rocks and consists of cafe man, cafe owner, me, Scottish Mags. Surreal but nice. A few curious tourists peered in. We ignored curious tourists, maintaining relaxing yoga positions.

PS. Car miraculously started up again the next morning. I believe its an electrical error of some kind as the clock has gone wrong too. Not being an expert I leave my diagnosis at that and will join the AA as soon as I reach something resembling a town.

uh oh. Breakdown no.1!!

My little white car has bloomin' gone and broken down! Bad bad car. Although its just decided not to start so maybe it will decide to start tomorrow...fingers crossed. Why would my little car suddenly not start? All suggestions welcome please.

So before this I had (and am still having) a wonderful day. Started by waking up (as you do) walking to beach to look for the little blue penquins (not found) and watching the sea until my belly rumbled breakfast time. Then after cleaning duties I took off for a coffee and then a walk along this massively long beach, like 10 miles long!

Its been the sunniest day ever, really warm in the sun, like yesterday so i made the most out of it. As I returned to my car I met a gorgeous American guy getting out of his van so naturally I continued my walk in the other direction with beer in hand, searching for jade and chatting with nice man for a couple of hours. He was one of these Californian surfer/skier types you find in American movies. So that was a nice little surprise for the day. I watched sunset from Pancake Rocks. There were Scottish guys down there with deckchairs and beers exclaiming
"better than telly this". I was inclined to agree with them.

So great day, but then when I got back into little white she refused to start or turn over or anything. She was in some kind of grouch and I can't understand why. So hitched back safely and here I am, fed and with a nice warm cup of tea.

Dance Parties and West Coast Wekas

This is a 5 min walk from Te Nikau! I go there every morning.
I cycled along this road today - this was my view before I whizzed down the hill.


Last night I was brave. I decided to say yes to an invitation. For, wait for it, a dance party where the conditions were:

• You must dance
• You must not be afraid of 40+ yr olds dancing.
• You must bring a bottle
• You must drink the bottle.

Upon meeting the above criteria we all pootled off to a nearby house (a very nice nearby house at that, it had a compost toilet, lots of art everywhere, and amazingly massive silver beet growing in a hot house) feeling a wee bit nervous. Expect the unexpected.
Needless to say (perhaps?!) we 4 wwoofers had a marvellous time and danced our little socks off to a variety of weird and wonderful music in this lady's living room. I don't know where they came from, Punakiki being a tiny place (I've only spotted 15 houses so far), but it was a full living room. Full people just out of their gumboots and into their glad rags for the evening. Great stuff.

And today I met my first Weka. I curious creature who will rifle through your bags quick as lightning and nick stuff, oh and leave you little shite gifts to clean up. Looks a bit like a kiwi if you don't really know what a kiwi looks like. I'll put a photo of the little buggers on here once my camera decides it wants to work again.

I also got a letter from Lulu (you are my biggest commenter, I almost feel like I'm just chatting with you actually as I write this then go read your blog!). Yippee, love letters. And you are almost as strange as me in your writing style. Most enjoyable Lulu thanks. Why did you send me a phone card but not include your number I wondered?

I would like to write an ole to the West Coast but I'm not sure if I'm poetic enough. That may come later.
I've put a wee list of all these topics I want to write in here on my homepage and you can vote for which one you want! Then the winning topic with get coverage. Genies.

A beautiful beginning...

.. to a day definitely helps it along. My day began at half 6, when I realised that it was light already. Horray for spring. I've decided that it is SPRING and that means lots of loveliness everywhere. Dafs, Lambs, sunrise earlier and earlier, planting seeds, lots of joy and new beginnings and hope for a new season of growth. I really LOVE SPRING. I don't care if other people are convinced it's still the middle of winter. It's not. Spring has Sprung.

And things here are perking up a bit. I still has a residual headache from A. B. or C. However I am happy in the knowledge that 4 hours of brass polishing to no effect is NOT the norm here (I would have left! The only person I will happily polish brass for in the future is Nan. I definitely won't do it for pompous English Men who think asking me what I will be 'doing' with my life and when my career will start is a great question to then laugh at the answer. My answer was what he expected. 'I'm doing this, now, this IS my life, now. I don't want a career as such, I want useful life-long skills.' He laughed and then talked about people on benefits for a while. Not a man in my good books.

But here is looking up. I like loud Scottish girl. I love coffee still. I LOVE THE WEST COAST. Ocean = Amazing

ARE YOU SHOUTING or just talking too loud

I have a headache. It's rubbish. I've decided its a combination of these three factors.

1. Caffeine withdrawal after drinking too much coffee on my way down here. (By the way, any Kiwis reading - your coffee culture is great and you are Fantastic at making coffee, so I now hold you responsible for my only bad habit - coffee. I love it. I drink more coffee than tea these days.)

2. SHOUTING people. Well maybe I have been taking everything a little harshly since arriving here, but there's a Scottish girl here who doesn't talk, she SHOUTS. But now I'm feeling kinder and I think its just that she didn't get given volume control at birth. Maybe everyone shouts in Scotland? I don't know. It hurts my head, and after a night of very poor sleep in a room with lots of people stop/starting snoring I was in the mood this morning for shouting. No shouting near me. I shall wear a sign. I think I'll be liking the girl soon though as apart from the shouting and fanatics about me not moving furniture for my yoga I think she's quite nice.

3. Spending 4 HOURS polishing copper that just won't shine up, it won't, it refuses. But none-the-less I had to spend 4 HOURS breathing in noxious fumes. A walk on the beach has sorted me out though.

Headache present but fading.

Went a got a coffee after this mornings worst wwoofing experience to date and tried to talk myself out of running away. IT'S SO BEAUTIFUL HERE, RUGGED, WILD, BEAUTIFUL. And yet I have not found myself in the best of moods. I blame hormones...
So I went and got a coffee in the only cafe and a paper, then poured coffee over paper. Mopped coffee up using scarf to lessen embarrassment factor. Then coffee man came over for a chat and I told him about the coffee incident anyway and showed the offending and now smelly scarf, he laughed. I laughed. Less headache.

I think it will get better.

NO COMPOST BIN?

How can there be no compost bin? I don't understand. Why What How?
I've just arrived at Te Nikau, a lovely retreat in the middle of the bush near Pancake Rocks, and I'm doing the whole anxious nervous thing that tends to happen when i just arrive someplace new. The owner Lisa seems lovely, bubbly, Welsh, showed me round with excessive speed and now I'm reeling wondering why I am here. Not because I believe it will be bad, it won't be bad. Its just that Karamea was so very great. Rongo and the crew there are so very great. I'm sad to leave having just gotten to feel like part of the furniture. I'm out of my comfort zone again and there's NO BLOOMIN' COMPOST bin. How does that work. And I have to adjust myself to sleep in a room with 3 other wwoofers. How will I do my morning yoga?
Well I guess if that is my biggest worry than I'm pretty happy...someone said this place is a workhouse compared to Rongos and I'm inclined to believe that, but only because it seems very structured - I start work at 10am, I clean for 4 hours, wwoofing over.
And not being a guidebook fanatic I didn't read that theres no shop, no cashmachine, no petrol. Luckily I don't really need any of these things. What this place has is an abundance of nature and I'm hoping, hoping to find some good company too.

By the way, would the person who called me a raging hippy in an anon comment please come forward. I would like to have a little 'discussion' with you. I wonder who will win. If of course, as I suspect, you are too gutless to call me a hippy And sign your name then I will just have to believe that I have already won said argument. Lovely

Laura's got Soul

I've just been listening to Laura's Soul Radio Show, a journey through the different Soul eras. I never realised I knew so little about soul music; there's Northern Soul, Neo Soul, Motown etc etc, it's great to be surprised by things you didn't know and realise how interesting these little bits of knowledge are. And where this knowledge comes from. In this case the person is Laura. Fellow wwoofer. Essex girl. Really lovely Essex girl who I would have never guessed knew so much about music. I think that goes to show that you can never ever just look at someone and think you have them sussed. There's always always more to that person, there's always something to learn, something to surprise, in every single person you meet. I love it when I meet people like Laura who I am sad to leave behind as I leave Karamea and head South, because there is so much more to her that I would like to get to know and won't.

How fascinating that there are 6 billion people out there who I could potentially meet and learn from. Doesn't that excite you? Even just a little bit?

Well, I've finished my garden, that will grow and bloom into an Eden of colour and gorgeousness come summer. Check out the path!

You never know, I may have to return to check its progress in the summertime.