The circle

And so I find myself in the same place I set off from, thousands of miles and twenty months lagging behind me reminding me that yes, I have been away. Now I'm back my adventures seem so far behind me already that at times in the last week I seriously wonder whether it actually happened! Nice in a way that everything remains in essence the same. The same faces, some with different jobs, different partners, different houses, but the same people just 20 months older. Many people have peered at me before exclaiming with what could be a snort of relief, "Oh, you're exactly the same!".  I think whatever they were expecting I was also expecting. Some kind of significant change, everyone always remarks that travel is a life-changing experience. Well yes, my life has changed in that now I have to build a new one out of the rubble and ideas and lessons of the last one I had, but Hana as a person has happily remained pretty much identical to the Hana that left the UK 20 months ago. 

I've had such a great time abroad and I learnt so much, about other cultures, my job, myself, but now its over, the circle has completed itself. Its time for a new beginning. After focusing so long on the end of my journey from New Zealand, through Thailand, Vietnam, China, Mongolia, Russia, Belaruse, Germany, France, London and finally to Devon, the destination of destinations, now I'm here there's a gap. Like floating around at zero gravity, or walking into the fridge at work to get something only to find you have forgotten what it is and have to go all the way back to remember. What now for Hana and her adventures? That's the question.

The last leg of my journey through Europe was really smooth and easy and lovely. It felt like a visiting expedition, seeing my old friends Katie, Tia and Paris, and making a new friend called Berlin. Berlin - the one city (other than Wellington) I visited that I would love to live in. I would have to learn German (which frankly is off putting) but other than that its my sort of place. Interesting, grungy culture, lots going on, lots of green and water. Berlin, it was a pleasure to meet you.

I do believe that this is Blog number 100! A fine number to sign off on, although I find myself a little sad not to have somewhere to write now, I've really enjoying putting my little life of travel and new experiences into words. Who knows what adventures the next 20 months hold? Whatever they are my feet are staying firmly in the UK, on my search for a garden, a yoga class and a nice organic cafe to work in (if you are a town and fit these specifications I'd be happy/delighted to make your acquaintance, please send applications via the comments page).

A massive thank you to everyone who has been reading this during my time away, it was an absolute pleasure! 

Moscow

Three days in Moscow! I was sceptical, most people tell me 'just go to St Peters', but you know what, it's a great city. The centre is clean, safe feeling, and full of magic buildings carefully lit up and on display. It's trying hard, and I was pleasantly surprised. The Kremlin buildings, the Red Square - wow! Certainly worth a couple of looks I'd say. Especially St. Basils Cathedral with all the ice-cream cones/onions on the building. Looks like some crazyfied circus tent.

Having Tanyaer meet me for the evening and show me her city was fantastic. I learnt lots of details and saw the city in its full glory with the help of a local. There are musicians and street performers on every corner and in every underpass - from classical to full-on punk, take your pick. We went up to the bikers hot spot, where hundreds and hundreds of bikers come to hang out and socialise with the best view of the city. Magnificent!

The city has a real cosmopolitan feel to it, its much more European than Russian, and I'm really glad I also saw Irkutsk to provide a comparison. Massively different to Siberia. A lovely interesting city where you can buy Russian dolls til your hearts content!

And now to the last, bar one, city on the hit list - Berlin. I arrive with no knowledge and no expectations....

It strikes me that last night was the final customs malarkey I have to go through! Yippeeee. My 27 hour train Moscow to Berlin went without hitch with the help of one of my all time favorites - Pride and Prejudice. Thank you Jane (after reading that 15 times we are now on first name terms).

The Transmongolian - the train journey of all train journey

I sit here thinking, one week and I'm home! One week out of 18 (or is it more now, I lost count) months of being away. One week...so soon! I remember one month ago - one month and I'll be back, and all this to see in the meantime. Now China and the Transmongolian have been and gone - not in a blur of course but rather calmly, in sharp focus. All that amazing contrast and sights and experiences once alien are now swimming around my brain, jostling for a place in my memory bank, hoping they are not the ones who fall off the edge. So many stories, I just hope my dodgy memory will be able to keep up. Tanyaer said to me last night that I will have to be a great grandmother for all the stories I have collected on this trip. Ah well, Babuska-dom here I come. Maybe I'll collect a few more first though...

The train journey was everything I thought it would be. The last part of my trip, from the land crossing into China, I ceased to form expectations of what was to come, I only thought that I must enjoy and make the most of it. The end was in sight, my only responsibility was now to enjoy the filling! With expectation invariably comes disappointment or perhaps that mild confusion when the picture of that town in your mind does not resemble the picture of the town right in front of you. Did I come to the wrong town? you think. A blank canvas really helps!
I had the guide books, but towards the end they mostly lay inactive in my bag, weighing me down with countless information I didn't read and advice/opinions I didn't follow. Well, it was better! Better to take them exactly as they are, a Guide, than as the Bible that some seem to follow relentlessly.
For example, Bryn Thomas, your guide to the Transiberian may be perfectly suited to your and many peoples tastes but frankly it bored me and your map drawing skills are somewhat lacking (to put it nicely). However many many many people proclaimed this as the MOST excellent thing to have on the Transiberian train. Personally I would have preferred a chess set.

So no expectations and many surprises lay in wait. As I boarded my train from Irkutsk to Moscow I put the thought out there that maybe it was time I met some Russians on my train. 10 minutes later my wish was in its physical form - The Russian Army in my cabin. A General Alexis, his wife Tatyana, and a junior lieutenant. We communicated in my favorite non-lingual ways - gestures, the odd word, and pictures of places, friends, family. And of course with food!! Alexis knew some words of English - EAT and DRINK were among his favorite. I got seated in the place of honour in our tiny cabin (next to the food) and was encouraged/forced to eat eat eat and drink drink drink VODKA. And so goes my vodka experience on the Transiberian. The men got gradually worse for wear and started fighting in my honour (the Lieutenant was sitting on my bed, and suddenly the General deemed this inappropriate and throw him off across the cabin!). I promptly left and rallied the troops - the only other foreigner on the Russian carriage, Lo and we joined forces. One night in the Russian carriage was actually enough and we both moved up into the Chinese carriages where there were a few more foreigners, and made some friends to spend the remaining days with.

It was a magnificent experience of a train journey. Highly recommended.

Smacking fish, Vodka and the wonders of Lake Baikal

Lake Baikal, a sacred place of Shamans and the deepest purest waters. It is the deepest oldest lake on planet earth with 25% of the worlds fresh water! You have to go there to believe it. I arrived, the lake is mostly frozen, three days later its changed colour, pure deep icy melting waters.
Home to the Burat people, there are shrines and sacred places everywhere, poles tied with bright cloth and coins and vodka scattered to ask for guidance from the spirits of their ancestors. The nearest village to Olkon village, where I was staying, is KHARANZI meaning 'seeing place'.
We went on a big tour of the island, so much raw natural power. Icy cold to cosy warm in a day, a thick cap of ice disappearing so fast, overnight even.

I'll remember the cutting wind, the overwhelming presence of Baikal, the clear air and beautiful sunsets over the cliff tops. I'll remember the huge kindness of Lyuda, the Vodka celebrations ( a different something to celebrate every night, a different cheers with every shot), the many many legends and stories, the Russian 'jokes', the many tales. For example, step in cow poo = lucky in love, lose at cards = lucky in love. Remarks from Lyudas Grandmother - Boys are not dogs, they do not like bones (ie, eat eat eat some more).

The trans-Mongolian from Beijing to Irkutsk was BRILLIANT. I saw Yaks, Camels - all colours, Yurts everywhere, hours of forest, hours of the Gobi dessert, hours of grassland dotted with the occasional lone person or Yurt. I found good company to pass the tedious border crossings with, good beer and nibbles and cards to while away the hours. The splendor of the Mongolian dining carriage compared to the stark grey of the Chinese one with elated prices to match.

And well....I am so pleased and proud that I am doing this train journey. It really is an epic.

THIS is a GREAT wall

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Today I did the classic! The climbing and long march of the GREAT WALL OF CHINA! It really truly is a feat of human(han)kind. Well, actually the great emperor Chi (who China takes her name from) started it...then it just got longer and rebuilt and rebuilt for thousands of km, thousands. I got to see a part of the unrenovated wall where there was NO OTHER tourists, and believe me that is an achievement on Labour weekend. We walked up to the wall and along it for a few hours, just taking in the endurance and bodies of men that went into it (literally, some say the exhausted dead were simply buried within the wall as extra mortar!). The scale of it is just...breathtaking. It never really served its purpose as defense against the marauding neighbours, but it did provide a safe trade route facilitating the exchange of goods and ideas from the middle east and India.

Not only did I see the GREAT WALL, but also took the mandatory culinary experience of Beijing today too. Peking Duck! I am stuffed as a stuffed duck. Delicious.

Beijing, like China in general, is a confusing mix of old and new, of frantic rebuilding, breakneck speed development and remnants of an old way of life. You've got the traditional Hutongs, where many people live, next to just-built shiny complexes. It would have been interesting to see Beijing before the Olympics, you can almost see the Huge effort that's gone in to try and Westernise the city. The subway is 10 times better, cleaner, more efficient than the London underground, some streets are so clean (forgetting air pollution of course) its like walking through a model village. Then you turn a corner and the streets a mess of mud, dirt, rubbish and workmen. I've had a few people say in perfect English "Hellooo, Welcome to China" whilst giggling with the excitement of being able to speak their one English phrase! A mix is what it is.